Introduction: A watch born for the jet age
From October 24 to November 2, 2025, the haute horology scene will spotlight one of the most enduring symbols of travel and precision: the GMT-Master. Rolex, in collaboration with Cortina Watch, presents Time Zone to Time Zone, a dedicated exhibition tracing the watch’s remarkable voyage from a cockpit instrument to a global icon, and its evolution into the GMT-Master II. This event invites enthusiasts and casual observers alike to reflect on how a single timepiece could redefine how we live across borders.
The origin story: Jet age, dual time, and a bold bezel
First launched in 1955, the GMT-Master emerged at the dawn of commercial aviation when crossing time zones became a daily reality for travelers. Its design answered a practical question: how to stay connected to home while navigating a world of different local times? The watch’s signature features—the distinctive triangle-tipped 24-hour hand and the two-color, 24-hour graduated rotatable bezel—made tracking a second time zone intuitive and reliable. The blue and red two-color bezel quickly became an emblem of adventure, a visual shorthand for global travel.
Evolution of the movement: From Caliber 1036 to Caliber 3285
Over the decades, eleven movements powered the GMT-Master, each pushing reliability and functionality forward. The pivotal shift came in 1982 with the GMT-Master II and Caliber 3085, which introduced a freely adjustable hour hand in one-hour steps without stopping the movement—an essential feature for pilots and travelers who frequently flip time zones. This marked the transition from a tool watch to a more adaptable companion for a mobile lifestyle.
Today, the GMT-Master II is equipped with Caliber 3285, Rolex’s modern engine that integrates the patented Chronergy escapement and a blue Parachrom hairspring for superior energy efficiency and resistance to magnetic fields. With an approximately 70-hour power reserve, the watch is designed to stay precise through long-haul journeys and time zone changes alike.
A journey through materials and design milestones
The exhibition’s thematic panels chronicle the GMT-Master’s design milestones—from the earliest Plexiglas bezels to today’s Cerachrom ceramic bezels that resist scratches and color fading. Other milestones highlighted include the Jubilee bracelet’s refined comeback in 2018 and the luminous Chromalight display, which provides long-lasting legibility in low-light conditions. Together, these elements tell a story of technical progress meeting enduring aesthetics.
From cockpit to cultural icon: the people behind the timepiece
Beyond the machinery, Time Zone to Time Zone pays tribute to the diverse cast of individuals who wore the GMT-Master through the decades. Pilots from major airways, astronauts, actors, artists, and explorers populate the narrative, illustrating how a watch originally conceived for aviation has grown into a universal symbol for those who traverse borders. The exhibition emphasizes that a tool designed for navigation can become a cultural touchstone, accompanying countless stories across continents.
What visitors can expect: close looks and a cinematic finale
In addition to the physical timepieces on display, visitors will encounter a short documentary tracing the GMT-Master’s journey—from its aviation origins to its status as a modern icon. Attendees will also have the chance to examine current GMT-Master II iterations available in the catalog, offering a tangible connection between history and contemporary watchmaking. The experience is designed to be accessible: educational panels alongside immersive, up-close encounters with the watches themselves.
Why this exhibition resonates today
Time Zone to Time Zone captures more than a chronology; it highlights how a single instrument can define an era’s relationship with travel. In a world where global mobility is a constant, the GMT-Master II remains both a precise tool and a cultural signal. It embodies the fusion of engineering excellence with a sense of adventure, reminding visitors that precision and curiosity can travel together across time zones.
Practical details
The exhibition runs from October 24 to November 2, 2025, and invites audiences to engage with a curated journey through the GMT-Master’s evolution. A blend of historical context, technical explanation, and human stories ensures the experience appeals to seasoned collectors and curious newcomers alike. Whether you are drawn by the mechanical innovations, the aesthetic evolution, or the personal narratives, this event offers a comprehensive look at a watch that has charted humanity’s global ambitions.
