A safer era for textile finishes begins with ECSO
In a move that could reshape fabric finishing, researchers are exploring epoxidised cottonseed oil (ECSO) as a water-repellent, wrinkle-resistant coating for cotton textiles. The work, conducted in the labs of Cotton Incorporated in Cary, North Carolina, targets a long-standing problem in the garment industry: wrinkles and water sensitivity treated with traditional finishes that rely on formaldehyde-based resins and PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances). These substances are effective, but their environmental persistence and potential health risks have spurred a search for safer alternatives.
Why ECSO matters in textile chemistry
Formaldehyde-based resins have been a mainstay for wrinkle resistance because they bond well with cotton’s cellulose fibres. However, formaldehyde is toxic, and chronic exposure has been linked to various health concerns, including cancer, according to researchers and public health guides. PFAS finishes, commonly used to impart hydrophobicity, raise similar concerns due to their persistence in the environment and associations with health issues. In this context, ECSO is appealing because it offers a water-repellent surface while staying rooted in a plant-based source—the seeds of cotton plants themselves.
How ECSO creates a hydrophobic, reinforced textile surface
The team’s findings describe a dual-action mechanism: first, ECSO molecules bond strongly with one another to form a hydrophobic polymer that repels water. Second, these molecules also form molecular bridges between cellulose fibres, which enhances the fabric’s resistance to wrinkling. This combination could deliver durable performance without relying on hazardous solvents or toxic resins.
Measuring water repellence: a simple but telling test
To quantify the water-repellent quality of ECSO-treated fabric, researchers used a high-speed camera to observe how water droplets interact with the surface. The key metric is the contact angle, which measures the angle at which a droplet meets the fabric. Materials with contact angles above 90° are considered hydrophobic. In experiments, untreated cotton absorbed water readily and showed no meaningful contact angle, while ECSO-treated fabric demonstrated a contact angle of about 125°. This substantial shift indicates a strong, durable barrier against water penetration and stains.
Towards a more sustainable finishing process
One practical advantage of ECSO is the potential to move away from solvent-based application methods. The team aims to develop an emulsion of epoxidised oil in water. Eliminating hexanes or other organic solvents would reduce environmental impact and improve safety in production settings. “This would remove solvents from our process – we wouldn’t have to use hexanes to apply it, which is a great bonus,” said a team member, underscoring the push toward greener manufacturing practices.
Industry collaboration and next steps
Cotton Incorporated, a non-profit organization with lab-scale and pilot-scale facilities, is helping translate ECSO research into scalable testing. The organization’s involvement is significant because it can bridge laboratory discoveries with feasible industrial applications, potentially enabling pilot-scale manufacturing of ECSO-based finishes. The current phase focuses not only on water repellence but also a broader assessment of performance metrics relevant to textiles, including tear strength and long-term durability under typical wear and care conditions.
What comes next for ECSO in textiles
Looking ahead, researchers plan to explore ECSO-treated fabrics under real-world conditions, examining how the finish holds up after repeated washing, abrasion, and environmental exposure. If ECSO proves robust alongside other performance attributes, it could become a preferred alternative to formaldehyde resins and PFAS derivatives, aligning textile finishing with growing consumer demand for safer, more sustainable materials.
In sum, the ECSO approach represents a promising convergence of plant-based chemistry and modern textile performance. By combining water resistance with wrinkle control while minimizing toxic substances, ECSO could help set new safety and sustainability standards for clothing and home textiles alike.
