Categories: Restaurant Reviews

Shila Tel Aviv: A Culinary Review by Avi Afarati

Shila Tel Aviv: A Culinary Review by Avi Afarati

Introduction to Shila Tel Aviv

Shila, a renowned restaurant in Tel Aviv, is known for its seafood offerings and upscale dining experience. However, with prices soaring, including ceviche dishes starting at 84 shekels, it seems consumers are left weighing the value against the quality of the fare. Notably, an option for a couple’s meal is available at 428 shekels, catering to a broader audience who may be looking for a fine dining experience without overspending.

The Evolution of Shila

Opened in the early 2000s, Shila was originally an intimate seafood bistro characterized by a youthful charm and culinary talent. Chef and owner Sharon Cohen built a reputation for hard work and high-quality dishes that appealed even to casual diners, making it a favorite spot for locals. However, as the restaurant expanded, some loyal patrons, including myself, felt its soul dimmed and the food quality began to fluctuate.

Changing Dynamics and Chef Cohen’s Persona

Over the years, Cohen’s public persona has also transformed. Where he once came across as engaging and relatable, he has shifted towards a more confrontational style, particularly in response to critical reviews. My critiques have reflected a more critical lens as the quality of the food has varied. Importantly, my opinions on food remain independent of personal interactions; I aim to provide an honest view for food enthusiasts, not for restaurant owners.

Dining Experience Overview

During my recent visit, I anticipated high standards based on Shila’s established reputation, particularly for classic seafood dishes with a local twist. The evening began with a focus on appetizers, specifically the lamb porchetta priced at 96 shekels. The presentation included four succulent pieces of porchetta accompanied by flavorful dips and a fresh salad, which truly impressed us. It provided a momentary uplift after some lackluster starters.

Main Courses: A Mixed Bag

Following the promise of the porchetta, we moved to the main courses, hoping for consistency. I ordered the fish and shrimp kebab (156 shekels) served in a hearty Persian stew with yogurt. The spices were well-balanced, and the kebabs were tasty; however, the shrimp left much to be desired, lacking quality for the price point. In contrast, the spaghetti with seafood (198 shekels) disappointed significantly, featuring overcooked squid and shrimp that failed to meet the high standards expected.

Desserts: A Silver Lining

To conclude our meal, we sampled the “plaisir sucre” dessert (62 shekels), which was a delightful combination of almond dacquoise, chocolate ganache, and mocha cream, served with vanilla ice cream. This dessert truly shone, indicating that the kitchen is capable of producing exceptional flavors, reminiscent of high-end French cuisine.

Final Thoughts

Overall, Shila presents itself as an impressive establishment with attentive service and a vibrant atmosphere. However, the high price point does not consistently reflect the quality of the food. Although we relished the lamb porchetta and the dessert, the inconsistency in seafood quality, particularly in the ceviche starters and pasta dishes, raises concerns about value for money.

Conclusion

We spent a total of 703 shekels for our dining experience, which, while not excessive for a fine dining establishment, felt steep given the unevenness of the dishes. Shila must aim for greater consistency to warrant its pricing. Dining here can be a delight, but improvements are essential for it to remain a top choice among discerning food lovers.