New Rules, New Routes
The Washington Post’s newly appointed food critic has wasted little time in signaling a shift in how the paper covers the culinary landscape. Instead of chasing high-profile tastings behind velvet ropes, Elazar Sontag is embracing a grounded, human-scale approach. His mission: to explore the places where people actually eat, and to measure quality by what it tastes like at the table — not by reservations or pedigree.
From White Tablecloths to Everyday Tables
In his inaugural lunch, Sontag traded the traditional restaurant press tour for a destination that sits off the beaten path: a church cafeteria tucked behind a parking lot near Mt. Vernon Square. This choice wasn’t about novelty for novelty’s sake; it was a deliberate statement about food as a shared, civic experience. Cafeterias, food trucks, and neighborhood kitchens are where flavor meets community, and Sontag argues that those settings often reveal the most honest reflections of a city’s palate.
Rules that Redefine the Beat
Word has spread that Sontag is not bound by the usual rules that govern food criticism. He has spoken openly about a few guiding principles that shape every review:
- Transparency over Prestige: He prioritizes clarity about ingredients, sourcing, and kitchen practice, even when the setting lacks glamour.
- Context Matters: The meal is considered within its neighborhood, its season, and its budget — offering a fair measure of quality within constraints.
- Humanity First: The dining experience is evaluated through conversation, service, and the overall sense of welcome as much as it is through flavor alone.
- Accessible True-Taste: He seeks dishes that tell a story about place and people, not just technique.
These rules imply a broader mission: to help readers discover what’s worth seeking out in their own communities, not just in the rarefied corners of the dining world.
The Washington Palette: What He Sees
Sontag’s early descriptions emphasize flavor, texture, and memory. He writes with a palate that respects tradition while inviting experimentation. The cafeteria lunch, for instance, became a canvas to discuss balance — the contrast between comfort foods and bright, modern flavors; the tension between a daily menu and a chef’s signature flourish. In a city renowned for its fast pace, his approach slows readers down enough to notice the care poured into each dish, even when the setting isn’t haute cuisine.
What This Means for Readers
For Washington Post readers, the new critic offers a compass that helps them navigate an expansive food scene. Expect coverage that shines a light on:
– Under-the-radar neighborhood spots that deserve attention
– Honest appraisals of ingredients and technique, without snobbery
– The social dimension of dining — gatherings, rituals, and shared meals
A City Food Map Reimagined
As Sontag continues to publish, the expectation is clear: food criticism rooted in human experience, accessible to a broader audience, and anchored by a respect for local economies and daily life. He argues that the most lasting flavors aren’t always found behind glass-door restaurants; they’re often found where people gather, cook, and share, sometimes in places you wouldn’t expect to find culinary greatness.
Takeaways for Aspiring Eaters
Readers can approach meals with the same curiosity the new critic brings to the table: seek out places that tell a story, talk to the cooks about sourcing, and allow time to appreciate the textures that make a dish memorable. By redefining what counts as a “worthy” dining experience, Sontag invites everyone to become more discerning, more hopeful, and more engaged with the everyday food that fuels our city.
