From Congo Roots to Global Shelves: The Rise of African Beauty
The beauty industry is increasingly turning toward Africa’s rich botanical heritage, with brands weaving traditional ingredients and community-centric production into modern skincare. African beauty, or A-beauty, is moving beyond niche markets to capture the attention of global retailers and consumers seeking efficacy, sustainability, and cultural resonance. At the heart of this shift are brands like Koba, S’Able Labs and RandR Skincare, each demonstrating how African botanicals can power high-performance formulations while supporting local economies.
Koba: Guarding Purity Through Local Sourcing
Thérèse M’Boungoubaya launched Koba with a clear vision: root skincare in African-sourced ingredients. A pivotal choice was safou, a purple fruit famed for anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. The path to cosmetic-grade safou oil demanded meticulous processing by hand to preserve purity and traceability, a constraint that limited scalability but ensured quality. To create a more resilient supply, M’Boungoubaya and her father invested in land to cultivate and process the oil themselves. Today, roughly 80% of Koba’s safou oil comes from that land, with a future goal of full self-sufficiency.
Expanding the Botanical Catalog
Apart from safou, African botanicals such as qasil, baobab seed oil, and moringa are gaining traction in mainstream skincare. The rise of A-beauty is closely tied to retailers recognizing the market potential—Credo Beauty, Anthropologie, Goop, and Space NK are among the brands embracing these ingredients. This momentum is complemented by new players like RandR Skincare, which recently secured a deal with Amazon and celebrated a 15th anniversary in Nigeria.
Bridging Tradition and Modern Science with S’Able Labs
S’Able Labs, founded by Sabrina Dhowre Elba and Idris Elba in 2022, exemplifies how traditional Africa-grown actives can be integrated into modern formulations. The brand sources moringa from Kenya, marula from Namibia, and prickly pear from Madagascar, translating botanical wisdom into products like the Black Seed Toner and the Moringa Lip Salve. The launch of a tinted Lip Salve in 2023 marked S’Able’s foray into color cosmetics, signaling how A-beauty can meet diverse consumer needs without sacrificing heritage.
Moving Beyond “Black Beauty”
Industry voices emphasize that African botanicals offer benefits for a broad audience, not just those seeking melanin-specific products. The challenge lies in scaling production and securing retail partnerships. Dhowre Elba argues that A-beauty should bridge Black-founded skincare with mainstream customers by highlighting universal concerns—hydration, inflammation, and dryness—and showcasing how African ingredients meet those needs.
Scaling a Movement: Co-ops, D2C and Global Retail
RandR Skincare’s strategy demonstrates how to scale responsibly: direct-to-consumer channels, in-house production, and a hybrid retail approach that includes Amazon and brick-and-mortar partners. Co-ops remain a cornerstone for many African beauty suppliers, enabling fair wages and skill-building for women artisans. Brands like Liha Beauty also emphasize cooperative sourcing for shea butter, preserving traditional methods while expanding access to global markets.
The Future of African Beauty: Innovation, Inclusion, and Investment
Analysts note a rising demand for culturally relevant, scientifically validated skincare. Africa’s youthful population—about 400 million people aged 15–35—drives a desire for tailored products that respect local ecosystems while appealing to global sensibilities. Market projections for key botanicals, such as moringa, suggest continued growth in personal care, reflecting a broader appetite for plant-based actives from the continent. The real test remains building scalable supply chains, improving intra-African trade, and expanding shelf space in giants like Sephora and Ulta without diluting heritage.
Conclusion: A-beauty as a Bridge, Not a Niche
As brands blend ancient African rituals with modern science, African beauty is poised to become a defining trend rather than a regional curiosity. The movement’s strength lies in authentic storytelling, sustainable sourcing, and products that deliver real skincare benefits. If producers can scale responsibly and retailers continue to embrace these ingredients, A-beauty could become a staple in mainstream beauty, inviting a global audience to experience Africa’s vibrant botanical heritage.
